LS4 FAQ

Speed limiter removed

AC Disabled Above 4800 RPM's

Fan's set to come on high at 185 (part of the pretune for the fan kit available on the website).

Disabled abuse mode that makes the car buck when doing a burnout or powering out of a corner.

Disabled the Torque Convertor for all gears except 4th to increase convertor life

Increased the Torque Convertor pressure (This is tested during the drive of the vehicle to make sure it's increased good.

Set the transmission to shift faster with increased shift request times.

Set the trans to upshift into the next gear at 6000-6100 rpm's

Set the trans to downshift into 1st and 2nd gear at higher speeds to improve acceleration

Increased the trans pressure at idle to prevent slip bang in the future and any current slip bang issues.

Disabled all codes for emissions and set to auto pass.

Disabled the cars ability to put itself into a reduced power mode

Disable all Throttle and Torque Limiters

Enabled and Pre-tuned flex fuel (requires an e85 kit to be installed, available through me or my website.

Disabled DOD

Set the rev limiter to 5800

Disabled Deceleration fuel cutoff so that the car pops and burbles more (More effective when you don't have cats, and hold the gears)

Additional Crackle tune (cats must be removed within short period if you want the crackle tune of decide to have me add this)

Disabled Power Enrichment Delay

Set Throttle maximum open % to 100%

 

Corrected all VE and MAF fueling (One of the biggest thing's that help the car make more power, most are 15% lean and don't even make their rated power. If your car happens to be one of these, then the hp increase can be pretty significant. If your fueling is already perfect than you can expect around at 18-25whp and 15-18ftlb gain depending on the health of the engine , when running 93 octane.)

 

Corrected spark to altitude to get the most power from the vehicle. (Part of the process of "adding" additional power"

 

The 2 major things that help with trans longevity is,  I test the convertor.  That's one of the main things that kills them. If increasing the pressure does not stop it from slipping, then I disable the convertor entirely.

 

If it's good I set it to only come on during highway cruising in 4th gear above 55. That way you still get the long commute mile per gall, but doesn't kill the convertor. City mileage will suffer slightly. Highway mileage will remain the same, as it would still be commanded to lockup.

 

The next thing done is torque reduction during shifts, i set it to pull power during shifts and that takes all the load off during shifts and helps it shift much faster and limiting wear

 

I also increase the idle pressure to stop slip bangs from pressure drop due to factory tuning and seal failure (Mentioned above, reiterated)

 

But every car is different, I tailor the tune to its problems, which can range from bad torque converter, lack of fuel during wide open throttle, spark knock, etc. etc.

 

There is allot more really but that's the jest of it.